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Of and to in a is for on that with was as it by be. But it is Schiaparelli who is credited with changing the outline of fashion from soft to hard from vague to definite. Jean Patou who had first raised hemlines to 18 off the floor with his flapper dresses of 1924 had begun lowering them again in 1927 using Vionnets handkerchief hemline to disguise the change.

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